Wrapping Up Quebec
Our last full day of hiking began with a little thrill ride—courtesy of the Backroads vans. We left the farm and wound our way toward Quebec City, but not before stopping at a ski resort that moonlights as a summer playground for hikers and mountain bikers. The roads were so steep it felt like a low-budget roller coaster, minus the seat belts and funnel cake.
A Sweet Stop in the Sugar Bush
Our group hiked down to a maple grove (aka Sugar Bush), where we got the inside scoop on Canada’s favorite export. Here’s the highlight reel:
- Canada owns the syrup game: Roughly 70–75% of the world’s maple syrup comes from here, with Quebec alone churning out 90% of that.
- The math is wild: It takes about 40 liters of sap to make a single liter of syrup. Most of it is water, boiled down in a “sugar shack.”
- Timing is everything: The syrup season is only 4–6 weeks in early spring, when cold nights and warmer days get the sap moving.
- They even have a syrup vault: Quebec keeps a strategic reserve of maple syrup. This is to keep the price stable during lean years. In 2012, thieves stole 3,000 tons worth $18 million—a sticky little heist that went down in Canadian history.
I was surprised at how few actual maples I’d seen so far, and even here the grove was a mix of pines and other trees. The maples were connected by a web of blue tubing, carrying sap downhill by gravity to the sugar shack. Camille and Stephanie even brought out “maple water”—sap before the boil. Imagine coconut water’s woodsy cousin. Odd but delicious.
The Hill I Didn’t Mean to Climb
At this point, we split into groups. Mom chose the sensible route back; I, apparently possessed by optimism, decided to hike uphill to a viewpoint over the St. Lawrence River. “You can turn around whenever you want,” they said. Famous last words.
Halfway up, I realized I’d miscalculated. But pride is a powerful fuel, so I trudged on, finally reaching the top where Camille and Brad joined me. Apparently, we were the only three foolish enough to go all the way. The view was worth it, but let’s just say the longer relaxed lunch looked like a missed opportunity.
We walked back down and then took a gondola up to the top of the ski resort. I loved seeing how the resort transforms in summer. Mountain bikes hung from the gondola cars like ornaments, and riders coasted down the slopes. My kind of cycling: ride up, coast down, repeat.
A Farewell Hike and a Castle Stay
Axelle greeted us with a beautiful picnic lunch, then sent us out for one last hike. Mom and I slowed down, soaking up the views—wildflowers buzzing with bees, ski runs turned meadows. It was the perfect, quiet finale to our hiking adventure.
From there, it was 45 minutes into downtown Quebec City to our final hotel: the iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Built by the Canadian Railroad Company to woo travelers, it’s as grand as any castle and twice as photogenic.
Dinner that night was a celebration. We took the funicular down to the lower city, wandered the cobbled streets, and toasted to new friends and tired legs.
The King’s Daughters and Goodbye
Our final morning included a walking tour with Christian, who shared one of my favorite tidbits: In 1660, the French king realized Quebec was a bachelor colony, about one woman for every ten men. His solution? Recruit women from Paris, mostly orphans or those without prospects, offer them money and land, and ship them across the Atlantic. These “King’s Daughters” often went on to have eight children each. Many modern Quebecers can trace their roots back to these King’s Daughters.
One more leisurely lunch, then taxis whisked everyone away. Mom and I headed to the airport, where Chad met us and our little Vision Jet. Customs in Richmond, then home. A beautiful flight to close a week of trails, history, syrup, and Mom time — a perfect Backroads ending.