Budapest, Day Two: Smitten, Surprised, and Slightly Over-Caffeinated

Let me just start by saying it: I am completely smitten with Budapest. I’m sure I’ll come back down to earth eventually, but for now I’m floating somewhere above the Danube with a goofy grin on my face.

The day began with the hotel’s breakfast, an included perk that felt far too indulgent for something “included.” An overwhelming spread of every imaginable breakfast food, each one more tempting than the next. I almost felt guilty leaving so much uneaten… almost. Once fortified, we set off to find the Parliament building for our 10 a.m. tour, an activity everyone online insisted was the thing to do in Budapest. For once, the internet was not lying.

The Hungarian Parliament building, finished in 1902 and proudly perched on the riverbank, is enormous, ornate, and instantly impressive. Whether or not it’s actually “one of the largest and most ornate parliament buildings in the world” (as the statistics boldly claim) doesn’t really matter; it certainly felt monumental to me. After passing security, we were given audio guides in our preferred language and instructed to follow a very serious guard who walked with the brisk purpose of someone escorting a dignitary rather than four American tourists who photograph door hinges.

Inside, history is everywhere—Hungary’s seven founding tribes, the long lineage of kings (and that one queen who had 19 children), and a sense of national identity woven into every ceiling panel. Then came the Hungarian Crown Jewels: the crown, the coronation sword, the orb, the scepter—and the famously bent cross perched on top of the crown. It’s tilted at such a jaunty angle that the only reasonable explanation is that some medieval kid knocked it over during a game of indoor tag. The audio tour tells a more solemn story, but I stand by my version.

The Crown Jewels sit in the great domed hall under no-photography rules, guarded by two soldiers who stand so still it seems physically impossible. You can walk right up beside them, admiring both the jewels and the discipline. I suspect the no-photo rule has less to do with the crown and more to do with preventing endless tourist selfies beside the unblinking guards.

One of my favorite discoveries inside the building were the metal trays lining the windowsills. They turned out to be cigar holders from a time when legislators weren’t allowed to smoke in the chambers but apparently needed their cigars close enough to visit on breaks. The combination of statecraft and cigar storage felt extremely “old Europe” in the best possible way.

The tour ended downstairs, where they display artifacts from the building’s past—including a huge red glass star placed atop the dome during the communist era. There’s no sign explaining it, so naturally we took a picture, Googled it, and had a “Wait… is this that star?” moment.

When we stepped back outside, the sun made a surprise appearance. We strolled along the river and stopped at the powerful Shoes on the Danube Bank, the memorial honoring the Jews murdered during WWII. A quiet, humbling moment in a day full of beauty.

After a restorative coffee stop (Budapest seems to run on caffeine and charm), it was time to meet our guide, Nelli from Neillicious Travels, who spent the next four hours showing us the corners of Budapest we never would’ve found on our own. We focused on the Pest side, starting with a subway ride to Heroes’ Square and a walk into City Park, home to one of Budapest’s massive thermal baths. This instantly went on my “Next Time in Budapest” list. The city seems determined to make sure visitors leave relaxed whether they want to be or not.

The park also contains Vajdahunyad Castle, a quirky collection of architectural styles borrowed from important buildings around Hungary. It’s over 100 years old and, in true castle fashion, is already working diligently on falling apart. Somewhere among the archways is a statue of Béla Lugosi, the Hungarian actor famous for playing Dracula. And while Dracula is technically Romanian, the historical figure did spend ten years imprisoned in Hungary, so the claim feels fair enough.

One of the best surprises of the afternoon was discovering my first Kolodko miniature sculpture. These tiny bronze installations—sometimes legal, sometimes… spontaneous—are tucked all over the city: on railings, corners, bridges, steps. Blink and you miss them. Nelli pointed out one, and now I’m fully committed to hunting down as many as I can. Consider this added to my “Come Back to Budapest” list as well.

We popped into several museums around the park, including the striking new music center and another museum that looks like it’s erupting from the earth. Budapest does not shy away from adventurous architecture.

From there we wandered down Andrássy Út, the city’s very elegant boulevard, toward the opera house. But first: cake. Always cake. We stopped at a classic coffeehouse for traditional desserts. Chad ordered an espresso, which arrived accompanied by a mysterious shot glass of clear liquid. We all stared until Nelli explained the tradition: an espresso is always served with a tiny glass of water to “keep you hydrated.” I’m not convinced half a thimbleful of water saves anyone, but the intention was sweet. The standout dessert was the Golden Dumpling Cake, which Nelli ordered for Chad and which disappeared mysteriously quickly.

By late afternoon, Budapest transformed again. The sun sets at 3:50, and at exactly 4:00 p.m. the city lights switch on all at once a shimmer of gold across the streets and squares. Crowds gathered, Christmas markets overflowed, and the whole place felt festive and alive.

But of course, not everything in Budapest can be sparkly lights and wrapped in a bow. Reality has a way of keeping us humble. When we got back on the subway, we noticed an unusually wide empty space on the train car—an open pocket of real estate that should’ve been a red flag in a city where everyone stands shoulder to shoulder. Naturally, we drifted right toward it… and instantly understood why it was vacant. Subway turd. A full, unapologetic, left-behind calling card. Poor Nelli looked mortified, like this was a personal failure on behalf of the entire Hungarian transit system. We assured her it was no big deal, Brian’s a doctor and has seen far worse. At which point Kim helpfully chimed in, “Well… he’s not a real doctor.” The support in this group is unparalleled.

We made a quick stop at St. Stephen’s Basilica, though an evening mass meant we couldn’t go inside without tickets. No matter; the market outside kept us entertained. Then it was time to head back toward our hotel and to our dinner reservation at Gerloczy, another spot recommended to us, and another absolute home run. If I keep talking about food on this trip, it’s because Budapest keeps serving meals worth talking about. My rabbit ragù was phenomenal, and the whole dinner was one of those easy, joyful travel meals that stays with you.

So yes: between the walkable streets, the glowing lights, the mild weather, the food, the history, the hidden sculptures, and the general charm of it all (including subway turds) —I am completely smitten with this city. And we’re not even done yet.